Musical Matera

It seems that wherever I wander in Matera, I hear music.

In some parts of town it is the songs of the birds that thrive in the ravines and church towers. Chirpy, rambunctious melodies from small flocks conversing among themselves, which faintly mimics the musical conversations I overhear in Italian, itself a sing-songy language.

Walking anywhere in the vicinity of Piazza del Sedile brings strains that are more practiced and perfected. One day it is from violins, another from flutes. Sometimes it is a more orchestrated arrangement of blending instruments forming a beautiful, classical refrain. Once in a while we hear a wrong note, or scales being practiced as warm-up. The Convervatory of Music has its seat in the Piazza del Sedile, and the surrounding neighborhood is pleasantly serenaded daily.

I have heard Jazz emitting from doorways and windows. I read somewhere that this classic American musical style has long been loved in Matera, and it shows. Even the flow of the passeggiata seems to be carried out to unheard yet very present strains of a soundtrack by Henry Mancini.

Then there are the churches. The bells don't toll, they chime. Now and then we hear the tinny recorded bells ringing out the Ave Maria, but usually it is the true bells sounding in a very musical fashion. Today, walking to the car, we passed the church of San Pietro Caveoso, on the astounding outcropping of rock, the church itself built up of heavy stones and blending into the natural formations. Out of the door wafted a heavenly choir of synchronated voices, raising up hymnal praises.

Matera may well be the city of stone, but it is also the city of music.