Partying Roman-Style on Jetlag

Knowing that internet access would be sporadic throughout the trip I lined up guest bloggers to keep you entertained in my absence.  I hope you enjoyed their insights.  Thanks to Jessica, Giorgio and Pauline for keeping things lively around here!  The three weeks went by far too quickly, but we had a near-lifetime of experiences in a short time span.  Memorable, touching, comical, educational and fun...I am still processing it all. 

Over the next couple weeks I'll be sharing some of those experiences.  Part I - The Roman Birthday Party...

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Maria and I inadvertently discovered an unfortunate truth. When one arrives in Europe with sleep deprivation and an 8-hour jetlag, and one is allowed to nap for only 45 minutes upon arrival before being rocket-propelled along curvy roads to a party being held in a 13th century castle where one is made to consume a six-course meal and interact exclusively in a foreign language, one has exactly 4 hours and 23 minutes of afternoon brain function and adrenaline to expend before one’s energy reserves give out and one’s exhausted head hits the table amidst raucous Romans dancing the electric slide.

Franco’s birthday bash started with an enormous meal worthy of whatever noble type used to occupy the castle. Plates continually appeared; we kept pace with the voracious eaters at our table, forks bouncing amiably while a singer crooned poorly-pronounced American tunes to the appreciative diners. An emcee, who was part comedian/part magician/part late-night talk show host dressed in a retro white suit, wended his way through the tables performing tricks and word plays.

Just when we thought they were going to roll out the cake, Franco’s wife yelled, “E adesso balliamo!” thus turning the dining room into a stage set for Dancing With The Stars.  Music poured out of a large speaker and started bouncing off the stone walls while a multi-colored disco light show commenced. The stars –or at least their Italian look-alikes- strutted to the dance floor. We watched Richard Gere twist his hips while his scarf swished in time to the beat. Two couples over from him we spotted a young Tony Bennett gracefully twirl his well-heeled partner in perfectly-executed loops. At one point, when the emcee shouted out instructions for an interactive game-dance, Peter Lorre came and grabbed my hand, forcing me onto the dance floor while smiling and jovially whispering to his friends, “I’m dancing with the Americana.”  I think maybe points were being racked up in some manner.  Maria was forced into a line dance and passed around like a trophy.

Then things began to turn hazy. Through the fog of fatigue, the lights and music started to warp and it seemed like I was watching a live Fellini film from the inside out. The dancing couples seemed to be all in synch, and the scene appeared to alternately speed up and then slow down while misty camera work gave it a dreamy appearance. Big smiles from Tony Bennett, then the camera cut to a lady with her head resting on her husband’s perfectly-fitting suit jacket, all seen through pearlesque light that would suddenly gain brilliance before fading back to a soft glow. Then Tony Bennett laughed, his face right in front of mine, and I realized that we were not watching the scene so much as the performers were watching us, and being very amused by our droopy eyes and tired heads bobbing toward the table in search of pillows.

I don't think Fellini could have scripted it any better himself.

And The Winner Is....

{drum roll}

...Vicky! 

After shoveling a tunnel-like path through nearly 2 feet of snow, Bryan came inside and drew the winning name in the Baci Birthday Bash.  Congrats Vicky!  Since she lives in nearby Maryland I hope we can meet for a cappuccino so I can deliver the Baci treats in person.

Thanks to everyone for coming to the party, and for coming along on the adventure.  It means a lot to me that you take time to be a part of my journey.

Coming Off an Italy Hangover

I found myself stumbling and tripping while desperately filling a glass with water to quench an incredible thirst.  I felt woozy, dizzy, and disoriented, as if beset by a horrible hangover after an all- night binge.  Which I guess was rather to be expected since I just spent the past three weeks inebriating myself on bella Italia and was now paying the price with a bad case of jetlag.

I arrived in New York yesterday afternoon ragged and bedraggled.  Airline travel saps my energy and luster like nobody's business and leaves me blotchy-faced and wiped out.  I heaved my suitcase off the carousel to find it resting in a pool of blood, evidence of red wine hemorrhage seeping from its pores.  Despite my very careful packing and many previous experiences of wine-hauling, the baggage handlers at JFK managed to find a way to create carnage in my bag.  I discovered my hand-carved stone timbro di pane from Matera was busted as well.   The newspapers and expensive magazines I had packed served as gauze to soak up the bleeding, ruining them all. 

I awoke at 3:00 a.m. with the hangover symptoms, despite not having drank anything, and tossed around in bed trying to reclaim some snippets of sleep, mostly unsuccessfully.  An afternoon's nap will hopefully get me through to this evening as I attempt to put my body clock back onto the Eastern US time zone. 

Internet access was rather sporadic throughout my trip but I haven't forgotten about the birthday present.  The Baci gifts I brought home are safe and dry and tomorrow I will have Bryan pick a winner out of a hat.  Now excuse me while I prop my eyes open long enough to extract red wine from my clothes...

Guest Blogger: Pauline Kenny

Today we're joined by Pauline Kenny, the queen of slow travel and the brain behind the successful website, SlowTrav.com  She currently runs two informative travel sites, Slow Europe and Cotswolder.  We have been friends with Pauline and her husband Steve for about a decade now.  She is fun, witty, and *the* authority on vacation rentals.


I Love Vacation Rentals in Italy
Pauline Kenny, January 2010

Maybe it's because I’m a do-it-yourselfer. Or maybe I’m just a nester. Now that I think about it, I am probably a little of both. This is especially true when I’m on vacation for a few weeks. A small hotel is fine if I am spending a few nights in a city or doing a short driving tour of an area, but if I am in the Italian countryside for a week or two I want to be in a vacation rental. I want my own apartment or house with a fully equipped kitchen and room to spread out. I don’t want a concierge to hand me a map with all the “must sees” marked; I want to spread out my maps, consult my guidebooks and figure out exactly where I am going.

A perfect small house in the Val d'Orcia, Tuscany

I love historic Italian houses with their thick stone walls and uneven tile floors, with doorways that I have to duck to go through, with lush gardens where I can find a spot to sit and enjoy the views of the magnificent Italian countryside. I like to learn my way around the kitchen, see where the owner has stored the glasses, figure out how to work the stove. There is a great feeling of accomplishment sitting down to a meal that I made myself with fresh market ingredients in an Italian kitchen.

Living in a vacation rental makes me head out to the local shops for household things and ingredients for our meals. I love wandering around an Italian grocery store (alimentari), seeing the different items they sell. I have purchased way too many “Made in Italy” clothes pegs just because they are different from what I see at home. I love the personal interactions with the shopkeepers. I like to examine each cafe in the village, pick one to be “mine”, then go and introduce myself to the barista (actually my husband Steve, who speaks Italian, is in charge of this). Then we go back once or twice a day and become “regulars”. These types of things make me feel like a local and give me a strong connection to the area.

You are spoiled for choice when looking for a vacation rental in Italy. Do you want to stay on a wine estate in Tuscany? In a medieval village in Umbria? In a place with a view on the Amalfi Coast? Up a narrow lane in the historic center of Rome? They got all that and more.

The terrace of a house in Cetona

Italy has more vacation rentals per square mile than any other country in Europe. The Italian government encourages farms to offer vacation rentals through their agriturismo program, adding to the availability of interesting properties. Northern Europeans have been traveling to Italy for sunshine, great food and wine for decades. In the last couple of decades Americans have fallen in love with Italy and flock to the beautiful countryside.

To help travelers navigate the world of vacation rentals in Italy and the rest of Europe, Valerie and I are writing “profiles” of various vacation rental businesses on my Slow Europe website – highlighting locally-run agencies, agencies based in the US, and owners of farms with vacation rentals. We are trying to put a human face on this sometimes bewildering world of vacation rentals, to make it easier for travelers to make that “leap of faith” booking a place you have never seen, several months before your trip, and sending off that large deposit.

These profiles let you meet the people who run the vacation rental agencies, get to know them and their businesses, find out how they operate and how they got started, and see what kind of insider tips they offer. We are adding new profiles every month. Read our Travel Company Profiles, then check out their websites.

My husband Steve with the owners of a villa near Assisi

If the world of European vacation rentals is new to you, read my Vacation Rentals Guide, which tells you everything you want to know about finding and booking vacation rentals in Europe.

Valerie and Bryan followed their dream of living in Italy for several years. Maybe we can’t manage that, but we can live the dream for a few weeks by staying in a vacation rental. Start by visiting the vacation rental websites, look at places and prices, then find the guidebooks and great Italy Travel blogs (like this one) and read, dream, picture yourself there – then take the leap and book a vacation rental for your next trip. You’ll be glad you did!

“Don't dream it, be it”, Rocky Horror Picture Show, 1975.

Pauline Kenny lives in Boulder CO with her husband Steve Cohen and cat Buddy. She runs two travel websites: Slow Europe, guide to finding vacation rentals in Europe and Cotswolder, travel guide for the Cotswolds, England.

Happy Birthday!

Wow! I can hardly believe it, but 2 Baci in a Pinon Tree turns 5 years old today!  It was in 2005 that I ventured into the uncharted cyber waters of blogdom, dubbed myself a blogette because I thought 'blogger' sounded too amphibious to me, and began writing about bad haircuts, springtime tumbleweed slaughters, and my distaste for garage sales.  I chronicled our near-drowning on the Rio Grande, cursed the obnoxious new neighbors who obliterated our beautiful view, and told about some of the beautiful places and traditions around our beloved New Mexico.

I revealed our dream of moving to Italy, and then detailed the plans and stages of the move.  The name still reflects that New Mexico-Italia duality.  Why 2 Baci in a Pinon Tree?  Many have puzzled over it and quizzed me about it.  I wanted something punchy (because why be boring if you don't have to?)  Baci is our pet name for each other, sort of our equivalent of "sweetie" or "honey." It also happens to be our favorite Italian chocolate indulgence (dark chocolate-hazelnut, nature's perfect match!).  Pinon is the state tree of New Mexico.  It sounded snappy and a little funny.  Besides, back then I didn't think anyone would actually start reading and following my journey!

Along the way I fulfilled my dream of living in Italia, became a freelance writer, and recounted the joys and tears of the past five years.  I've received some nice accolades, helped others in their genealogical searches and Italian moves, and have met some wonderful people...all because I started typing into a keyboard and putting it "out there" for others to read. 

Thanks for coming along on the ride.  Stay tuned...as the journey continues!

To celebrate the birthday, I'm throwing a party...and to get in on the fun, all you have to do is show up!  Just put your name on the guest list (ie, leave a comment) and you'll be registered to win a fabulous, tasty and cute Perugina Baci trinket - complete with candy, of course - from bella Italia.  Just leave a comment before January 31 and one lucky birthday guest will get the door prize!

Guest Blogger: Giorgio Tomassetti

Many of our Italian friends have said that they enjoy talking to us about Italia, as it allows them a glimpse of their country through the eyes of foreigners.  It gives them a perspective on things they take for granted or just may not think about as being signficant.  Today we're doing that right here, as my friend Giorgio Tomassetti, an Italian college student, tells us what he likes about the U.S. of A.

Top Ten Things I Like About America:

10. The American Dream

The American Dream is what distinguishes America from the rest of the world. It is the reason why so many people moved to America throughout the years. Maybe it’s not as strong as it used to be, but for sure it’s not gone. Obama showed the world that the American Dream is still in place.

9. The ability to empower ideas
Many foreign people, even today, decide to move to the U.S. because they understand that by doing so they will be able to work on their ideas. Many countries have tried to replicate the American venture capital market for example, but no one was able to do it. I believe that it’s not just about money, it’s also about culture.

8. Meritocracy
I think that Americans should be aware of the fact that they live in the most meritocratic country in the world. It is true that not always the best are rewarded, but I’ve seen that there is at least the attempt to be meritocratic most of the times.

7. The cultural diversity
America is the world’s melting pot. This can be an advantage because it forces you to be open-minded and respectful of others. The idea that all men are created equal is the foundation of the American culture.

6. Think big
In America everything is big, or at least that’s what a foreigner perceives. When you see a gallon of milk in the supermarket, you understand that you are in America. Even in businesses the idea of “making things big” works pretty well; just look at how many franchises are out there. That doesn’t always happen in Italy. For example, a small business is most likely to stay small for the rest of its life.

5. Air-Conditioning
Air-Conditioning is not as popular in the rest of the world as it is in the U.S. It’s almost everywhere! Some Italians argue that air-conditioning is bad for your health, and maybe it’s true, but I personally love it because it makes summer more enjoyable.

4. Steakhouses
Before going to America, I didn’t know that eating in a steakhouse could be such an enjoyable experience. I just like the food they make there.

3. Dr. Pepper
I think Dr. Pepper is something you just love or hate. Well, I love it.

2. Free refills
I like the fact that some American restaurants and fast-food joints offer free refills on soft drinks and coffee. It makes the meal more enjoyable. Unfortunately I know that it’s bad for my health to drink too much of them…

1. Houses
Last but not least: the American house. When a foreigner thinks about it, he pictures a nice house, with at least two floors, a garage and a very nice garden outside. But from my experience in the US, I can say that the house is probably the most important thing a person owns in America. It’s just not the building, it’s something more.

Giorgio Tomassetti is a college student Carlo Cattaneo University in Milan, studying Business Administration.  He writes two blogs, Giorgio Tomassetti and Come si fa...  For more interesting insights on life in the US, visit the blog he kept during his year as an exchange student in WV, Un Anno a Stelle e Strisce.

Related Posts:

Giorgio's Previous Guest Post

Running With Bulls and Dancing With The Pope

Guest Blogger: Jessica Spiegel

While I'm signing paperwork to buy a piccolo appartamento way down in the ankle region of the boot, Jessica Spiegel, of the fabulous site WhyGo Italy, is joining us here in the Pinon Tree, and doing a fine job convincing me that I need to revisit Venice. 


Venice was the first city I set foot in on my first trip ever to Italy, and it's still one of my favorite cities on earth. I think I'm stealing this line from another Venice fan, my friend Christine Cantera, but I have an enormous crush on Venice.

To me, Venice is like the high school bad boy - y'know, the impossibly gorgeous one - who tempts you with promises you know he can't (or won't) keep, who breaks your heart every time he pays attention to another girl, and who you'll still give another chance (and another, and another) even though you know you probably should just walk away and find another boyfriend.

*sigh*

If I'm being perfectly honest, I'd actually prefer to have a huge crush on a different Italian city. When people ask me, "What's your favorite place in Italy?" I'd really rather not sound so cliched when I reply, "Venice," but there it is. Sure, there are lots of places in Italy I love dearly, and several which I think I'd actually live in before I'd take up residence in Venice, but I have yet to visit an Italian city that makes me swoon or forget myself so completely as Venice does.

I've written about Venice often on my website, usually starting from the premise of helping people get past the things about the city that make some travelers return with stories of how much they hated it. For years, I've almost taken it personally whenever someone told me they'd had a bad time in Venice, and I would try to do anything I could to get them to reconsider, try again, change their mind. But I've become a bit less forgiving lately.

In other words, Venice travel advice-seekers, if you're not prepared to put in a little effort, then you might wanna think twice before you ask me for help.

I know what it takes to love Venice, and I also know prefectly well that Venice doesn't always make it easy. Remember that bad boy in high school? He wasn't easy to love, either, but you did it anyway. You made concessions, you overlooked faults, you ignored the warnings from family and friends. Of course, he finally did break your heart one too many times, and you eventually did find another boyfriend - one your mother could love, too - but you'd be lying if you said a piece of your heart didn't still kind of pine for the bad boy.

(Am I revealing too much? What were we talking about? Oh yes. Venice. Ahem.)

Venice takes effort. Venice requires that you look beyond the crowds of people shuffling like so many sheep between the Rialto Bridge and St. Mark's Square (and the cheap, crappy trinkets sold by nearly every shop along that route). Venice demands that you take a back road or two (or twelve) in order to find good food. Venice asks you to part with more of your travel budget than you'd really like to, especially for a city so small.

In a nutshell, Venice is work. But it's worth it.

Will you visit Venice, check it off your list, and then make the decision to turn your back on the bad boy in favor of nicer boyfriends in the future? Maybe. But if you do Venice right the first time, I defy you not to pine for it years later.

And when you find yourself sighing in that way only a beloved ex can make you sigh, come find me. Then we'll talk.

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You'll find all kinds of helpful travel tips and practical information on Jessica's site, WhyGo Italy.