Yes boys and girls, I'm still alive! I arrived in the Motherland sana e salva and am living in my piccola casa. I apologize or the lengthy absence from the blog; it has been a busy coupla weeks.
I found that my house had been happily inhabited in my absence by a whole load of spiders who had apparently decided to take advantage of Italy's squatters' rights law and make the place their own. They didn't like my intrusion and have been reticent to leave. I've been insistent and their numbers are finally dwindling.
My temporary kitchen set-up is working pretty well and I was greeted with a jar of fig jam, a jar of honey, and two bottles of wine - all homemade by friends, who had also taken it upon themselves to provide milk, eggs, coffee and tomatoes from their garden. A much warmer welcome than I could have imagined!
We will eventually move the kitchen to the other side of the room and make it an old-world rustic type of cucina, but for now I can boil up the pasta and offer my neighbors a caffe without too much trouble.
Internet has been hooked up and I bought a router to give myself some wireless freedom. It took me the better part of two days to get that functioning properly; why technology hates me is still a mystery, but in the end I conquered the sucker and am surprised that the signal carries through the thick stone walls.
The stone mason returned to finish some plaster work in my bathroom and I've acquired another cantina, a long story I'll recount another time, but for those of you keeping count, we now own four (count 'em!) cantinas.
When not battling spiders and trying to organize the casa into some semblance of orderliness, I've been making countless trips to Potenza to hunt down things I need, hit the bancomat, fill the gas tank, and look for work. I've had a few writing projects I've been working on, and have made a couple trips to the other side of the hillside to visit la famiglia...so you see why I've not been around the Pinon Tree for a while!
Things are taking shape and I hope to post more regularly. Thanks for hanging around.
Saturday, September 25, 2010
Tuesday, September 07, 2010
Getting out of Dodge
You know how much I hate packing. I love to travel but I don't like the getting there part, and I definitely don't like the packing part. I fret about taking too much, taking too little, the possible weather fluctuations, the dressy-enough factor, the comfort factor - just don't like it!
This time around, I'm still fretting but I'm not minding it so much, because packing means...I'm getting the Dodge out of Hell and heading for home! That's right, next week at this time I'll be tucking myself into my own bed, in my own house in Lucanella. Can't. Wait. Non vedo l'ora!
No offense to you northern Viriginia readers, but this has not been the life for me. We went from traffic jams that were caused by sheep in the road to the Capital Beltway, and the adjustment just wasn't pretty. In fact, the adjustment just didn't happen. Too much culture shock for a small-town girl who wants to live in her village of 600 souls.
Besides, our bureaucrats beckon; our Italian paperwork needs to be renewed. The process is simple enough, just time consuming, so we'll be spending the remainder of the year in Basilicata. Bryan will be coming in a few weeks. I'll go get the house put together and start job hunting (because while it's nice to stay through the end of the year, it would be even better to just...stay!)
The pinon tree will be empty for a week or so while I'm in transition. This little baci bird is flying home to nest in Italy!
This time around, I'm still fretting but I'm not minding it so much, because packing means...I'm getting the Dodge out of Hell and heading for home! That's right, next week at this time I'll be tucking myself into my own bed, in my own house in Lucanella. Can't. Wait. Non vedo l'ora!
No offense to you northern Viriginia readers, but this has not been the life for me. We went from traffic jams that were caused by sheep in the road to the Capital Beltway, and the adjustment just wasn't pretty. In fact, the adjustment just didn't happen. Too much culture shock for a small-town girl who wants to live in her village of 600 souls.
Besides, our bureaucrats beckon; our Italian paperwork needs to be renewed. The process is simple enough, just time consuming, so we'll be spending the remainder of the year in Basilicata. Bryan will be coming in a few weeks. I'll go get the house put together and start job hunting (because while it's nice to stay through the end of the year, it would be even better to just...stay!)
The pinon tree will be empty for a week or so while I'm in transition. This little baci bird is flying home to nest in Italy!
Sunday, August 29, 2010
The Five List for Foodies
Now that you know my favorite towns in Italy, I may as well spill the fagioli and tell you where I like to eat when I'm there. As you know, I'm all about the food; I promise you these ristoranti will do you proud and feed you well.
Ascoli Piceno
Cantina dell'Arte.
This is a tough one. Having lived there for a few years we had several places that captured our hearts (and our stomachs), so it's hard to narrow it down to just one. But when forced to think about it and recommend only one place to eat in Ascoli, I'd say head to Cantina dell'Arte. It's warm, rustic-chic interior is inviting, the service is good, the menu is varied and reasonably-priced, and the food is not only excellent, it's nicely-presented. Must Eat: the Olive all'Ascolana.
Matera
Osteria il Falco Grillaio.
I have half a mind to keep this one to myself. I've reviewed other Matera restaurants that I could pawn off on you, but you know I just can't lie to you guys. My favorite hands-down dining in Matera is the Osteria il Falco Grillaio. No, they don't serve falcon, despite the name. They do serve terrific traditional fare with a bit of flare in a rustic setting. It's right across from the Archeological Museum, making it easy to find. Must Eat: the home-made pasta with cardoncelli mushrooms. Or the cavatelli with mollica di pane. Can't decide which is my favorite.
Rome
Osteria dell'Arco.
Rome is awash with trattorie and ristoranti; the trouble is finding one that isn't also loaded with turisti. Our little haven away from the crowds is Osteria dell'Arco, just outside the Aurelian wall near Piazza Fiume. We happened into it on our first trip to Rome and have consistently enjoyed the meals there ever since. The tiny dining room is cozy and the chef is somewhat creative using mostly Lazio products. Must Eat: Pernicelli pasta with guanciale.
Sulmona
Hostaria dell'Arco.
A little ironic that this great eatery bears the same name as our Roman fave. The food is completely different. Abruzzese cuisine is hill country eating: hearty, bold, distinct. The Hostaria fills with locals who appreciate the antipasto buffet, the hot frittelle, and the home-made pasta. Around here "hostaria" means hospitable. Must eat: the antipasto buffet with super-fresh cheeses and an array of local delicacies.
Citta della Pieve
Trattoria da Bruno.
Despite its location in the centro storico of Citta della Pieve, da Bruno has a strangely modern and sterile interior. That does't carry over to the food, however, which adheres strictly to the credo of local and traditional. Daily specials are recited and particularly worth paying attention to. Service can be a little slow, but that's because the joint fills with exuberant, hungry pievesi. Must eat: the homemade ravioli if it's offered that day.
photo credit: The Girl Who Ate Everything
Ascoli Piceno
Cantina dell'Arte.
This is a tough one. Having lived there for a few years we had several places that captured our hearts (and our stomachs), so it's hard to narrow it down to just one. But when forced to think about it and recommend only one place to eat in Ascoli, I'd say head to Cantina dell'Arte. It's warm, rustic-chic interior is inviting, the service is good, the menu is varied and reasonably-priced, and the food is not only excellent, it's nicely-presented. Must Eat: the Olive all'Ascolana.
Matera
Osteria il Falco Grillaio.
I have half a mind to keep this one to myself. I've reviewed other Matera restaurants that I could pawn off on you, but you know I just can't lie to you guys. My favorite hands-down dining in Matera is the Osteria il Falco Grillaio. No, they don't serve falcon, despite the name. They do serve terrific traditional fare with a bit of flare in a rustic setting. It's right across from the Archeological Museum, making it easy to find. Must Eat: the home-made pasta with cardoncelli mushrooms. Or the cavatelli with mollica di pane. Can't decide which is my favorite.
Rome
Osteria dell'Arco.
Rome is awash with trattorie and ristoranti; the trouble is finding one that isn't also loaded with turisti. Our little haven away from the crowds is Osteria dell'Arco, just outside the Aurelian wall near Piazza Fiume. We happened into it on our first trip to Rome and have consistently enjoyed the meals there ever since. The tiny dining room is cozy and the chef is somewhat creative using mostly Lazio products. Must Eat: Pernicelli pasta with guanciale.
Sulmona
Hostaria dell'Arco.
A little ironic that this great eatery bears the same name as our Roman fave. The food is completely different. Abruzzese cuisine is hill country eating: hearty, bold, distinct. The Hostaria fills with locals who appreciate the antipasto buffet, the hot frittelle, and the home-made pasta. Around here "hostaria" means hospitable. Must eat: the antipasto buffet with super-fresh cheeses and an array of local delicacies.
Citta della Pieve
Trattoria da Bruno.
Despite its location in the centro storico of Citta della Pieve, da Bruno has a strangely modern and sterile interior. That does't carry over to the food, however, which adheres strictly to the credo of local and traditional. Daily specials are recited and particularly worth paying attention to. Service can be a little slow, but that's because the joint fills with exuberant, hungry pievesi. Must eat: the homemade ravioli if it's offered that day.
photo credit: The Girl Who Ate Everything
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Travel Italy - At Least Vicariously
Traveling to Italy is always a good idea, but if even if you can't hop a plane right now, you can still enjoy a tour of the boot over at Bleeding Espresso. My friend Michelle Fabio has put together a wonderful feature that lets you experience beautiful spots all over the peninsula, at least in a virtual sense, written by the people who live there. by Valerie Fortney Schneider
Enjoy!
Thursday, August 12, 2010
My Five List
I like to make lists. I don’t know why; it’s just one of those quirks. I like the memes like Five Favorite Words, or Ten Things You Didn’t Know About Me (which I keep meaning to get around to and somehow haven’t quite done it yet).
Today I’m giving a Five List – my five favorite towns in Italy. I’ve done a lot of informal email consulting since I started my blog and this is a question that comes up a lot. Of course, taste is subjective; the places I adore may not suit your ideal, but here are my picks, in no particular order.
Ascoli Piceno (Le Marche)
Oh come on, you knew this one would be on the list! I lived there for three years and it still feels like home to me. This is an appealing place: it offers amazing architecture, pretty piazzas, and friendly folks. And if that’s not enough for you the food is fantastic and the wine is wonderful. (So why haven’t you been there yet?) There's plenty to read about Ascoli here at the Pinon Tree; just do a search and you'll have reading material to keep you busy for a while.
Matera (Basilicata)
This is another obvious choice, at least one that habitual readers would have expected. Matera is almost indescribable; it is unique, complex, beautiful, haunting. Wandering the silent Sassi gives me an almost spiritual feeling, while the lively, hip centro up above buzzes with life. Some of the best meals I’ve ever enjoyed in Italy came from simple Materana kitchens. (More about Matera.)
Rome (needs no introduction)
It’s a true contrast that I bought a house in a remote, mountain-top village of 600 people yet I love, love, love Rome. I pledged my undying affection for Italy after about twenty minutes in the Eternal City. It is stylish, vibrant, noisy, beautiful, gritty, distinctive and chaotic all at the same time. I love the feeling of being embraced by millennia of history when I am there. And I feel at home among our “famiglia” there. I echo the sentiments of Princess Anne in Roman Holiday when she said, “Rome, by all means, Rome.”
Sulmona (Abruzzo)
If you’ve never heard of Sulmona before, you’re about to. George Clooney’s newest movie, The American, was filmed there. This lovely small city is one of Abruzzo’s real gems. Sulmona is famous for its confetti, the sugary almonds that are given out at weddings, but it is also surprisingly upscale, with trendy shops, pretty palazzi and coffee bars aplenty. The evening passeggiata brings out most of the town, with an endless parade of stylishly-dressed residents laughing and walking, eating gelato, meeting and greeting. (More about Sulmona.)
Citta’ della Pieve (Umbria)
This town is almost too perfect. It’s a picture-postcard type of golden-hued hill town that gleams in the gauzy light and embodies everyone’s image of Italy. As the birthplace of Perugino, it contains some fabulous artwork inside its charming churches. It is surrounded by olive groves, sunflower fields and vineyards. It is at the edge of Tuscany, making it a great home-base from which to see central Italy.
What are your favorite towns in Italia?
Check out my Five List for Foodies to learn where to eat well in these towns!
Today I’m giving a Five List – my five favorite towns in Italy. I’ve done a lot of informal email consulting since I started my blog and this is a question that comes up a lot. Of course, taste is subjective; the places I adore may not suit your ideal, but here are my picks, in no particular order.
Ascoli Piceno (Le Marche)
Oh come on, you knew this one would be on the list! I lived there for three years and it still feels like home to me. This is an appealing place: it offers amazing architecture, pretty piazzas, and friendly folks. And if that’s not enough for you the food is fantastic and the wine is wonderful. (So why haven’t you been there yet?) There's plenty to read about Ascoli here at the Pinon Tree; just do a search and you'll have reading material to keep you busy for a while.
Matera (Basilicata)
This is another obvious choice, at least one that habitual readers would have expected. Matera is almost indescribable; it is unique, complex, beautiful, haunting. Wandering the silent Sassi gives me an almost spiritual feeling, while the lively, hip centro up above buzzes with life. Some of the best meals I’ve ever enjoyed in Italy came from simple Materana kitchens. (More about Matera.)
Rome (needs no introduction)
It’s a true contrast that I bought a house in a remote, mountain-top village of 600 people yet I love, love, love Rome. I pledged my undying affection for Italy after about twenty minutes in the Eternal City. It is stylish, vibrant, noisy, beautiful, gritty, distinctive and chaotic all at the same time. I love the feeling of being embraced by millennia of history when I am there. And I feel at home among our “famiglia” there. I echo the sentiments of Princess Anne in Roman Holiday when she said, “Rome, by all means, Rome.”
Sulmona (Abruzzo)
If you’ve never heard of Sulmona before, you’re about to. George Clooney’s newest movie, The American, was filmed there. This lovely small city is one of Abruzzo’s real gems. Sulmona is famous for its confetti, the sugary almonds that are given out at weddings, but it is also surprisingly upscale, with trendy shops, pretty palazzi and coffee bars aplenty. The evening passeggiata brings out most of the town, with an endless parade of stylishly-dressed residents laughing and walking, eating gelato, meeting and greeting. (More about Sulmona.)
Citta’ della Pieve (Umbria)
This town is almost too perfect. It’s a picture-postcard type of golden-hued hill town that gleams in the gauzy light and embodies everyone’s image of Italy. As the birthplace of Perugino, it contains some fabulous artwork inside its charming churches. It is surrounded by olive groves, sunflower fields and vineyards. It is at the edge of Tuscany, making it a great home-base from which to see central Italy.
What are your favorite towns in Italia?
Check out my Five List for Foodies to learn where to eat well in these towns!
Wednesday, July 28, 2010
Waitress Duty
It's been years since I worked in a restaurant. I did a brief stint in college, but was in constant fear that my clumsiness would result in serious wine spillage or a plate of something messy in somebody's lap. During my sojourn in Lucanella I was called out of waitress retirement to aid my friends.
Peppe and Giovanna, the owners of the agriturismo, had been booked up for weeks with First Communion parties. They were expecting two groups on the one Sunday afternoon, with a total of about 80 guests. Now, I have few memories of my own First Communion; I know I wore a white dress, and my nana gave me a rosary with crystal beads that looked like diamonds to my six-or seven-year old eyes. We went to lunch at my uncle's restaurant - my parents, siblings and grandparents- but that was about it. In Italy, it is just a little bit more of a Big-Deal event. We're talking six antipasti, two different pasta courses, a meat course and several vegetables, to be rounded off with several desserts and then a gigantic, decorated First Communion cake. We're talking sit-down-and-stay-down for four hours kind of meal. For about 80 guests in a small rural, family-owned restaurant.
They had it all carefully planned and ready to go, had called in the ragazzi that they normally hire for this type of special meal, and began setting up the tables the evening before. Then Peppe wrenched his back and went into painful spasms. Unable to move without serious pain, I jumped in and helped finish the set-up and decorating. The following morning he was no better; he was clearly unable to perform his normal functions and fretting about what to do, but declined my offers of help while Giovanna chirped adamantly that he would be fine.
He wouldn't be fine, that was evident, so I marched to my room, changed into "waitress attire" and showed up when the ragazzi did, and starting carrying out wine bottles, bread baskets and antipasti plates, without giving my friends a chance to object. Fortunately it was a set menu so no order-taking was involved and things hummed along sort of like clock-work. I ran miles between the kitchen and the dining room, rekindling those dim memories of previous waitress duty and how fatiguing it was.
Peppe, ever clever, played the excellent host, but took on a whale of a joke and told the party in my dining room that I was a famous American giornalista who was writing an article about Italian culinary habits. He had them completely convinced that I was studying their table manners and interactions and was analyzing what and how they ate. Every time I entered the room the whole party would turn and smile at me self-consciously. If I was scanning the table-top to see if wine bottles needed refreshing, they would look around them to see what I might be sizing up about their gluttony. Meanwhile, Peppe dead-panned his joke to the very end, and one of the patrons even asked if I would like him to send me the photos he had taken throughout the meal! The joke served to cover Peppe's fears that I would be a less-than-stellar waitress, and explained the two knives that I accidently dropped to clank heavily on the stone floors, "Mah, she's not bad for a giornalista who is not a real cameriera (waitress)" they said as they excused my clumsiness.
At the end of the meal they were very sweet, but more importantly I was able to pitch in and help my friends. They were grateful. The next morning in the village a woman came up to talk to me, saying, "Sei Valerie? I'm Rocco's mamma, he told me about your hard work with them yesterday!" Word spread from there and suddenly people were questioning, "She's a cameriera? But I thought she was a giornalista!" For a day at least, I was both.
Peppe and Giovanna, the owners of the agriturismo, had been booked up for weeks with First Communion parties. They were expecting two groups on the one Sunday afternoon, with a total of about 80 guests. Now, I have few memories of my own First Communion; I know I wore a white dress, and my nana gave me a rosary with crystal beads that looked like diamonds to my six-or seven-year old eyes. We went to lunch at my uncle's restaurant - my parents, siblings and grandparents- but that was about it. In Italy, it is just a little bit more of a Big-Deal event. We're talking six antipasti, two different pasta courses, a meat course and several vegetables, to be rounded off with several desserts and then a gigantic, decorated First Communion cake. We're talking sit-down-and-stay-down for four hours kind of meal. For about 80 guests in a small rural, family-owned restaurant.
They had it all carefully planned and ready to go, had called in the ragazzi that they normally hire for this type of special meal, and began setting up the tables the evening before. Then Peppe wrenched his back and went into painful spasms. Unable to move without serious pain, I jumped in and helped finish the set-up and decorating. The following morning he was no better; he was clearly unable to perform his normal functions and fretting about what to do, but declined my offers of help while Giovanna chirped adamantly that he would be fine.
He wouldn't be fine, that was evident, so I marched to my room, changed into "waitress attire" and showed up when the ragazzi did, and starting carrying out wine bottles, bread baskets and antipasti plates, without giving my friends a chance to object. Fortunately it was a set menu so no order-taking was involved and things hummed along sort of like clock-work. I ran miles between the kitchen and the dining room, rekindling those dim memories of previous waitress duty and how fatiguing it was.
Peppe, ever clever, played the excellent host, but took on a whale of a joke and told the party in my dining room that I was a famous American giornalista who was writing an article about Italian culinary habits. He had them completely convinced that I was studying their table manners and interactions and was analyzing what and how they ate. Every time I entered the room the whole party would turn and smile at me self-consciously. If I was scanning the table-top to see if wine bottles needed refreshing, they would look around them to see what I might be sizing up about their gluttony. Meanwhile, Peppe dead-panned his joke to the very end, and one of the patrons even asked if I would like him to send me the photos he had taken throughout the meal! The joke served to cover Peppe's fears that I would be a less-than-stellar waitress, and explained the two knives that I accidently dropped to clank heavily on the stone floors, "Mah, she's not bad for a giornalista who is not a real cameriera (waitress)" they said as they excused my clumsiness.
At the end of the meal they were very sweet, but more importantly I was able to pitch in and help my friends. They were grateful. The next morning in the village a woman came up to talk to me, saying, "Sei Valerie? I'm Rocco's mamma, he told me about your hard work with them yesterday!" Word spread from there and suddenly people were questioning, "She's a cameriera? But I thought she was a giornalista!" For a day at least, I was both.
Thursday, July 22, 2010
Me and Tonino and the Four Ferramente
We have been fortunate to find fabulous friends in Lucanella. One such gem is Tonino, without whom none of the work on the house would have been completed. He set up the quotes, called to confirm (and re-confirm!) their work dates, and helped make sure everything went smoothly.
He drops things to come help me, and he has a smile that makes his eyes dance. Now that I know him better he has opened up and I have discovered that he has a great sense of humor and a lilting laugh. His wife invited me to lunch in famiglia, and I love them all. The daughter is pretty and whispers questions to her babbo for him to ask of me. The son is precocious and cute, much as I imagine Tonino was at his age. Antonia is a doll, who improvised a last-minute lunch better than most so-called Italian restaurants in the US could serve with a week’s worth of planning.
One afternoon we were all at my casa, Tonino, the falegname and the muratore and his son to get final measurements. Tonino had to translate between me and the thick, heavy accent of the falegname, and to tell him that I needed a new door lock. They sized it up, take measurements, discussed the type of lock I needed…because of course in Italy one size does not fit all when it comes to locks- or anything else for that matter. Tonino also tromped off in the rain looking for the destination of the kitchen drain, accompanied by the stone mason and his son, all three curious about the mistero of the invisible drain pipe. They have not yet figured it out, despite their soggy efforts. They think it might dump into the neighbor’s garden, in which case we are all to keep mum.
At twenty minutes to seven the stone mason reminds him that we still need to procure the necessary door lock for the woodworker install in the morning. “Porca miseria! Chiudono alle sette! Andiamo!” We race for his car, and then the southern Italian version of the Indy 500 along narrow, pitted, winding roads commences. We bump over hills and thud into potholes enroute for Potenza. We hit the autostrada at full speed, commendable given the short onramp, and screech around curves. Meanwhile, Tonino’s demeanor is that of a man on a country jaunt – “ So, Vah-leriee…did you enjoy lunch? Antonia is excited about the barbecue tomorrow night.” Other sundry conversation pieces were lightly discussed whilst he zoomed at Mach speed and missed his exit. Porca vaca, but no problem…we’ll still make it in time, he says merrily.
He morphs from Indy racer to Neapolitan city driver like a Jekyll-and-Hyde. He passes the line of traffic that is waiting patiently to turn (so un-Italian), blasts by them to the intersection, interjects the station wagon so swiftly and smoothly through the traffic that the other drivers don’t even have time to react. Not a single horn blared and he grinned. “Ha, alla Napolitana!” Pedal to the floor, we cruise into the parking lot of the ferramenta (hardware store) to find it open. Alleluia, says my friend.
Alas, the ferramenta has only one lock that will fit the dimensions stated, and it is a very down-market low quality one, says Tonino. Checks his watch. Andiamo, sbrigati. We can make it. Back into the family-sized rocket-ship to the Brico-fer, where the lock department has a line. Tonino smiles slightly, taps his fingers on the counter, tries to catch the clerk’s eye. Finally he interjects, “Solo una domanda…” and asks about the lock. The clerk doesn’t look up, just responds that they don’t carry the type of lock he wants. Tonino grabs my arm and hustles me to the door.
We nearly get sideswiped as he backs onto the road, then a cop car swings widely around us without a side-ward glance. Uphill through neighborhoods I’ve never seen before, he continues his Neapolitan personality as we arrive at Ferramenta Number Three. Surprised that they still open, Tonino double parks and leaves his door open as he rushes inside to make sure they don’t slam down their shutters before he can get through the door. I catch up just as the owner is bringing out a lock. It is a fancy one, it requires additional parts, it is the top of the line. It costs a fortune. I gasp at the price audibly. Tonino tells the guy, thanks but no thanks while hoping we won’t have to return to eat crow.
One more place, he mumbles. I just remembered it, should have thought of it first, they’re probably closed by now, the guy is persnickety…he’s talking to himself about the best streets to bypass the traffic as he weaves through the cars, nearly grazes a pedestrian, and jokes with me all at the same time. “Sembra aperta! Sembra…” The lights are ablaze. There are people inside. We enter. We are sized up and told to take a number. Nevermind that there are only two people in the store, the owner and a crony who is not buying anything, just shooting the breeze. Persnickety, indeed.
Yes, I have that type of lock, he says. He climbs a ladder to retrieve the box and sets it on the counter. Then he leaves to find something else for another guy who has come in. Tonino tries to cut through the tape with his fingernail, unsuccessfully. We look at each other and stifle laughs. This guy is in no hurry. It is already after 8:00 pm. “His wife must be a terrible cook. Why else wouldn’t he want to hurry up and go home and eat like everyone else?” Tonino whispers. Three others arrive. We have become giddy after the rush and adrenaline. Ferramenta Man ambles to and fro, while wise-cracking with people. “You may not be the dumbest guy in Potenza,” he tells the crony, “but you’re surely the ugliest.” Other things are said in dialect that garner great laughs from everyone except me.
Finally he comes back to us with the parts needed to change the lock opening from a right side door to a left side door. Who knew? Well, Tonino did, thank goodness. The man ceremoniously slices through the strip of tape and opens the box. He painstakingly, slowly removes the screws, piano piano. He is ready to place the mechanism into the metal lock casing and something distracts him. Tonino grabs the piece and starts to insert it, which is not to be tolerated, bringing the man’s attention back to the task at hand. Just as he is about to twist the little screws back in to secure the whole contraption, a customer knocks over a display and nearly clobbers me with a tumbling box. The owner goes to set things right, and Tonino grabs the screws and quickly turns them into place. He tries miserably to put the whole thing back into the Styrofoam packaging to stuff back in the box. Tsk, tsk from the owner who has returned and slaps Tonino’s hand away. We are now busting out laughing, which only slows the owner down even more. Finally, I am allowed to pay, which brings some rather unflattering-like dialect comments onto Tonino’s head from what I could gather, and we run to the car. We look at each other and cannot stop laughing. We start saying the same thing at the same time, right in succession: Aho! Mamma mia! Che avventura! Che un personaggio!” This makes us laugh even harder.
Finally we start back toward Lucanella, slightly less speedily but not much. He drops me off at my car and I call out, Ciao bello, which makes him blush. He and his wife have become dear friends very quickly; we’re the same age, so they’re as happy to have new friends in the village as we are.
He drops things to come help me, and he has a smile that makes his eyes dance. Now that I know him better he has opened up and I have discovered that he has a great sense of humor and a lilting laugh. His wife invited me to lunch in famiglia, and I love them all. The daughter is pretty and whispers questions to her babbo for him to ask of me. The son is precocious and cute, much as I imagine Tonino was at his age. Antonia is a doll, who improvised a last-minute lunch better than most so-called Italian restaurants in the US could serve with a week’s worth of planning.
One afternoon we were all at my casa, Tonino, the falegname and the muratore and his son to get final measurements. Tonino had to translate between me and the thick, heavy accent of the falegname, and to tell him that I needed a new door lock. They sized it up, take measurements, discussed the type of lock I needed…because of course in Italy one size does not fit all when it comes to locks- or anything else for that matter. Tonino also tromped off in the rain looking for the destination of the kitchen drain, accompanied by the stone mason and his son, all three curious about the mistero of the invisible drain pipe. They have not yet figured it out, despite their soggy efforts. They think it might dump into the neighbor’s garden, in which case we are all to keep mum.
At twenty minutes to seven the stone mason reminds him that we still need to procure the necessary door lock for the woodworker install in the morning. “Porca miseria! Chiudono alle sette! Andiamo!” We race for his car, and then the southern Italian version of the Indy 500 along narrow, pitted, winding roads commences. We bump over hills and thud into potholes enroute for Potenza. We hit the autostrada at full speed, commendable given the short onramp, and screech around curves. Meanwhile, Tonino’s demeanor is that of a man on a country jaunt – “ So, Vah-leriee…did you enjoy lunch? Antonia is excited about the barbecue tomorrow night.” Other sundry conversation pieces were lightly discussed whilst he zoomed at Mach speed and missed his exit. Porca vaca, but no problem…we’ll still make it in time, he says merrily.
He morphs from Indy racer to Neapolitan city driver like a Jekyll-and-Hyde. He passes the line of traffic that is waiting patiently to turn (so un-Italian), blasts by them to the intersection, interjects the station wagon so swiftly and smoothly through the traffic that the other drivers don’t even have time to react. Not a single horn blared and he grinned. “Ha, alla Napolitana!” Pedal to the floor, we cruise into the parking lot of the ferramenta (hardware store) to find it open. Alleluia, says my friend.
Alas, the ferramenta has only one lock that will fit the dimensions stated, and it is a very down-market low quality one, says Tonino. Checks his watch. Andiamo, sbrigati. We can make it. Back into the family-sized rocket-ship to the Brico-fer, where the lock department has a line. Tonino smiles slightly, taps his fingers on the counter, tries to catch the clerk’s eye. Finally he interjects, “Solo una domanda…” and asks about the lock. The clerk doesn’t look up, just responds that they don’t carry the type of lock he wants. Tonino grabs my arm and hustles me to the door.
We nearly get sideswiped as he backs onto the road, then a cop car swings widely around us without a side-ward glance. Uphill through neighborhoods I’ve never seen before, he continues his Neapolitan personality as we arrive at Ferramenta Number Three. Surprised that they still open, Tonino double parks and leaves his door open as he rushes inside to make sure they don’t slam down their shutters before he can get through the door. I catch up just as the owner is bringing out a lock. It is a fancy one, it requires additional parts, it is the top of the line. It costs a fortune. I gasp at the price audibly. Tonino tells the guy, thanks but no thanks while hoping we won’t have to return to eat crow.
One more place, he mumbles. I just remembered it, should have thought of it first, they’re probably closed by now, the guy is persnickety…he’s talking to himself about the best streets to bypass the traffic as he weaves through the cars, nearly grazes a pedestrian, and jokes with me all at the same time. “Sembra aperta! Sembra…” The lights are ablaze. There are people inside. We enter. We are sized up and told to take a number. Nevermind that there are only two people in the store, the owner and a crony who is not buying anything, just shooting the breeze. Persnickety, indeed.
Yes, I have that type of lock, he says. He climbs a ladder to retrieve the box and sets it on the counter. Then he leaves to find something else for another guy who has come in. Tonino tries to cut through the tape with his fingernail, unsuccessfully. We look at each other and stifle laughs. This guy is in no hurry. It is already after 8:00 pm. “His wife must be a terrible cook. Why else wouldn’t he want to hurry up and go home and eat like everyone else?” Tonino whispers. Three others arrive. We have become giddy after the rush and adrenaline. Ferramenta Man ambles to and fro, while wise-cracking with people. “You may not be the dumbest guy in Potenza,” he tells the crony, “but you’re surely the ugliest.” Other things are said in dialect that garner great laughs from everyone except me.
Finally he comes back to us with the parts needed to change the lock opening from a right side door to a left side door. Who knew? Well, Tonino did, thank goodness. The man ceremoniously slices through the strip of tape and opens the box. He painstakingly, slowly removes the screws, piano piano. He is ready to place the mechanism into the metal lock casing and something distracts him. Tonino grabs the piece and starts to insert it, which is not to be tolerated, bringing the man’s attention back to the task at hand. Just as he is about to twist the little screws back in to secure the whole contraption, a customer knocks over a display and nearly clobbers me with a tumbling box. The owner goes to set things right, and Tonino grabs the screws and quickly turns them into place. He tries miserably to put the whole thing back into the Styrofoam packaging to stuff back in the box. Tsk, tsk from the owner who has returned and slaps Tonino’s hand away. We are now busting out laughing, which only slows the owner down even more. Finally, I am allowed to pay, which brings some rather unflattering-like dialect comments onto Tonino’s head from what I could gather, and we run to the car. We look at each other and cannot stop laughing. We start saying the same thing at the same time, right in succession: Aho! Mamma mia! Che avventura! Che un personaggio!” This makes us laugh even harder.
Finally we start back toward Lucanella, slightly less speedily but not much. He drops me off at my car and I call out, Ciao bello, which makes him blush. He and his wife have become dear friends very quickly; we’re the same age, so they’re as happy to have new friends in the village as we are.
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